Entry #8

Saturday, October 29th

All over San Miguel, Dia Del Muertos preparations are underway. Nearly every Art Gallery and hotel in town has an ofrenda with photographs of loved ones or one constructed according to a theme, such as the largest one in front of the Parroquia which is dedicated to El Cantiflas, a Mexican entertainer and movie star from the 1950's. A special Mercado in Plaza Civica only sells items used for El Dia del Muertos: candles, copal incense, colorful paper picado and decorated sugar candy in the shape of skulls, skeletons, coffins, animals, fruits, plates of food, among many other things. Ofrendas are decorated not only with photographs but with the favorite foods and possessions of Los Muertos, including bottles of beverages (tequila and Coka Cola) handmade toys, musical instruments and clothing .

On October 27th, souls with no living family are welcomed back into the community. On October 28th, souls that died accidentally or through violence are remembered. On October 30th, Los Ninos Limbos--the souls of babies that died before being baptized-- return for one day. October 31st is the day of the Angelitos, children who were baptized before dying.

November 1st is the day when the souls of older spirits , The Faithful Dead, return to their families. That evening whole families line the streets to the cemeteries to clean and decorate the graves of their loved ones with plants, flowers and flower petals, and refresh the grave markers with a new coat of paint.
The family may have a picnic at the grave and talk to the departed about the events of the past year. Marigold petals, candles and incense show the spirits the way. People believe that the spirits walk among them and can share in everything that occurs, although unseen.

The celebrations will end on the evening of November 2nd. By the afternoon of November 3rd, there will be few traces of El Dia del Muertos, except in the cemeteries where the graves, covered in flowers, wait for the families to sweep them clean another day.

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Early Saturday, I got on a beat-up school bus with about 25 other gringos and went on an "Adventure Tour." These are led by an 80+ year old woman named Lucha for the organization she founded to help children with developmental disabilities. The fee of 150 pesos supports El Centro de Crecimiento and its programs. First there was a visit to the home workshop/ factory of a carpet maker. He had 6 looms which were operated by himself and 4 others and he made a high quality product there.
His prices were inexpensive for 100% wool rugs. Afterwards we traveled to the outskirts of San Miguel to the magnificent hacienda of a glass manufacturer and his wife- a metalworks designer. On this one trip we observed the extremes of Mexican life- artisans at opposite ends of the economic spectrum. The pictures show the son of the carpet maker stirring the large dying pot and hugging his dog. The last photo was taken at the Hacienda, and shows a viewpoint beside their family chapel.